Hot Off The Grill: Flame-Grilled Entrees

Restaurant grills run hotter than a home setup, usually well above what a backyard grill holds. That high heat sears the outside quickly and locks the surface, which is what gives grilled meat its crust and its smell.

The browning is a chemical reaction between proteins and sugars, not just charring. That's why a properly seared steak tastes different from one cooked slowly at low heat.

Glazes go on late. Most contain sugar, and sugar burns fast over direct flame. Applied in the last minute or two, a glaze caramelizes into a sticky coating. Applied early, it turns bitter.

Common glaze styles include smoky barbecue, sweet-and-tangy, garlic butter, and peppercorn. Ribs are usually the sweetest, steaks the most savory.

Resting matters too. Meat pulled straight off the grill and cut immediately loses juice on the plate. A short rest keeps it inside the cut.

If you want tenderness above everything, filet wins. If you want flavor, ribeye. If you want the best balance of price and taste, sirloin is usually the smart order.

Ribs aren't really a grilling cut in the same sense. They're cooked low and slow first, then finished over flame with glaze. That's why they come off the bone easily.

The USDA recommends a minimum internal temperature of 145°F for whole cuts of beef with a three-minute rest, and 165°F for poultry. Restaurants cook steaks to order below that on request, which is standard practice, though it carries the usual risk any undercooked meat does.

Practical advice: leaner cuts like sirloin and filet suffer most from overcooking. Order those medium-rare to medium. Fattier cuts like ribeye handle medium better because the fat keeps them moist.

Meat continues cooking slightly after it leaves the grill, so kitchens usually pull it a few degrees early.

• Ribeye or strip: a malty amber ale or a full-bodied red
• Sirloin: lager, pale ale, or a medium red
• Ribs with sweet glaze: brown ale, or a cola-style soft drink for a non-alcoholic match
• Grilled chicken: light lager, iced tea, or lemonade
• Spicy glazed items: something slightly sweet, since bitter beers amplify heat
• Grilled seafood: crisp white wine or a light wheat beer

The logic is simple. Rich, fatty meat needs a drink with enough body to stand up to it. Lean or spicy dishes need something lighter and slightly sweet.